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It is next to impossible to give you an exact road map for mileage tuning, like “if you have a Mercedes Benzmodel so-and-so, then this is exactly what you need to do”. We’re getting closer and closer to having such a road map. However, it will take years before we have a complete and simplified road map data base of all vehicles WITH their specific solution. I wish I could give it to you right now on a silver platter but it seems that nobody knows everything about it.

So, for the time being, you should read this article completely at least twice before jumping into action. Because this knowledge might not work in parts, it has to be complete knowledge. Specifically, you must be aware of ALL the sensors to be dealt with, as well as ALL available methods and solutions that may or may not fit your vehicle. Due to his ethics level no “secrets” held back and his high level of hands-on knowledge, I have chosen Mike Kehrli to be our expert on tuning the ECU.

This article describes ALL computer enhancements via the sensors, i. Not all modern fuel injection system are created the same, but a typical system may include the following sensors:. Sometimes it’s hard to find what type and number of sensors your vehicle has. Between so many car models, a source of reliable information is necessary. Also, we want it to be easy to use.

There are many ways to do this. Here’s a suggestion for online users of this book: When dealing with the intricate jungle of ECUs, sensors and all of that, you must use proper factory information. For a low monthly subscription, these guys give you everything you need: Try the following sources: There are many devices and technologies on the market and the Internet that are based on sound science that can’t seem to deliver the goods.

It has become painfully obvious by observing my apprentices on the mpgResearch Forum that a comprehensive Guide to Tuning is desperately needed. Simply making combustion more efficient these days isn’t enough. The factory ECU is programmed for the factory hardware. Once you deviate from that basic recipe, the ECU is no longer able to deliver optimal results.

Tuning a stock vehicle usually won’t deliver much of an increase in mileage. Once you add something to improve combustion efficiency, much larger gains are common. In fact, I’ve been seeing over MPG regularly with Brown’s Gas, fuel heaters, vaporizers, ozone, and other devices, almost always in combination. Let’s break the tuning process down into bite-sized steps. A logical format makes the tuning process more like science and less like a mystical black art.


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A common cause of vehicles fighting mileage gains is a hidden problem with the vehicle itself. Usually the vehicle runs perfectly fine, no codes are set, and the stock mileage is typical for that type of vehicle. When the proper tuning procedure is followed and mileage gains just won’t come, go back and start nit-picking the vehicle apart.

You might even consider planning on a complete tune-up at this time. Clean out your throttle body and PCV system.

Install new filters and oxygen sensor. Make sure the basics are in order. The next step is to install your mileage device or devices such as Electrolyzer.

Many people like to install upgrades one at a time to determine the overall effect each addition yields. Some like to just toss several on at a time. Usually finances dictate the one-at-a-time method. Be sure to install the device s properly. If it is a product you have purchased, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. If it is a device you have built from plans, perhaps from the internet, again, follow the instructions implicitly. Any other modifications called for in the instruction manual should also be done at this time.

Some devices require other changes in order to be effective. Without the other changes, the inventor cannot guarantee the results you seek. Short cuts usually short-cut your results. First, excess oxygen in the charge further oxidizes unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide. Second, excess oxygen lowers the peak combustion temperatures, which inhibits the formation of oxides of nitrogen.

Third, the lower combustion temperatures increase the mixture specific d1 ratio by decreasing the net dissociation losses. Fourth, as the specific heat ratio increases, the cycle thermal efficiency also increases, which gives the potential for better fuel economy.

The minimum-energy-consumption equivalence v17 was extended to leaner conditions by adding hydrogen, although the minimum energy consumption did not change. All emission levels decreased at the leaner conditions. Also, adding hydrogen significantly increased flame speed over all equivalence ratios. The ECU has parameters that it will not go beyond. The parameters that are correct for your modified vehicle almost wfie fall outside the range the ECU is prepared to operate.

Combustion efficiency enhancing technologies will easily take your maximized operating conditions beyond what the ECU will tolerate. The solution is to change the parameters. The ECU works similarly to our brains. It uses multiple inputs and controls multiple outputs. We have our 5 senses: Within each of these senses there are a range of different inputs possible.

The ECU has its senses as well: It then reverts to Look-Up tables for its source of information. At this point, mileage will invariably go down, and often a trouble code is set. Consider the conditions needed for the ECU to eie lean fuel commands. If the engine is warmer than it actually is, the ECU will accept leaner. If the engine is under less of a load, the ECU will want to deliver less fuel.


If the incoming air is hotter, the ECU will accept lean commands more readily. One of the easiest ways to lower lean-out limits is to install a resistor across the CTS and IAT sensors in parallel with the sensor. A parallel circuit offers 2 paths of travel for the voltage. A cold CTS will have very high internal resistance. As it warms up, the resistance goes down. Adding a parallel resistor nets a lower total resistance value, thus sending a hotter temperature signal to the ECU.

It should be noted that this trick applied to the IAT sensor will retard ignition timing in addition to lowering the lean-out limits. Most of the world uses similar resistance values to equate a given temperature.

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The Ford based systems including Mazda, Infiniti, and Jaguar use much higher resistance values. This is important to know when selecting resistors. If you have a scan tool available to you, use it.

With your engine at operating temperature, check to see that the temp reading is close to the thermostat rating. If it is, proceed. If it isn’t, check your cooling system for contamination or stuck thermostat. You may need to do a coolant flush or repair before proceeding.

The average vehicle will use something like a 3. Fords may like a 5K ohm or larger value. If your cooling fan runs continuously with your setting, add more resistance to lower the temp reading.

Any mileage gains from the hotter engine signal will be more than offset by the additional load on the alternator. If you have a rear-wheel-drive with a belt driven fan, you can still add too much temperature offset. The ECU has an internal cooling mode. After the engine overheats to a point, the ECU starts dumping copious plentiful, rich amounts of fuel.

The excess fuel will evaporate, thus cooling the engine from the inside. However, at this point your mileage literally tanks. The IAT is less sensitive to cold start issues.

You can add more temp to this signal than you can to the CTS. Just keep in mind that you are not only lowering your lean-out limits, you are also retarding your ignition timing. If you put a timing light on the engine as you adjust IAT values, you won’t see the timing change. The timing changes under load. Hotter air is more prone to detonation. This is why the ECU retards the timing. If you are tuning on the hottest day of the year, you may find out just how high of a signal you can generate before setting codes.